Field Fence Installation Guide: Posts, Spacing and Tensioning

Proper installation is just as important as choosing the right field fence. Even the best hinge joint or ring lock fence will fail prematurely if the posts are weak, the spacing is too wide, or the tension is wrong. This guide walks you through every step — from setting the first corner post to the final tensioning — so your fence stands straight and lasts for decades.

Whether you are fencing a cattle paddock, a sheep run or a deer boundary, the fundamentals are the same. Get the foundations right and the mesh does the rest.

What you need before you start

A field fence installation is a two-person job at minimum. Before you roll out a single metre of mesh, gather the right materials and tools:

Materials

• Corner and end posts — timber or steel, minimum 100 mm diameter. These bear all the tension, so do not undersize them.
• Line posts — Y posts (star pickets) or timber posts. Drove or concreted into the ground.
• Wire strainer or come-along — for tensioning the horizontal line wires.
• Hog rings or tie wire — to attach the mesh to each post at every horizontal wire.
• Diagonal stay and horizontal rail — for building H-brace assemblies at corners and ends.

Tools

• Post driver (manual or hydraulic)
• Wire cutters and pliers
• Level and tape measure
• String line for alignment

Step 1: Set corner and end posts

Corner posts are the foundation of your fence — they bear every kilogram of tension in the line. If a corner post fails, the entire run sags. This is the single most important step in the whole installation.

• Diameter: Use posts with a minimum 100 mm diameter. Larger is always better for corners.
• Depth: Drive or concrete each corner post to 600–800 mm deep. Deeper in soft or sandy soil.
• Bracing: Build an H-brace assembly at every corner and end. This means a horizontal rail between two posts, with a diagonal stay running from the top of the strainer post to the base of the second post. The brace transfers tension into the ground rather than pulling the post over.
• String line: Once your corner posts are set, run a string line between them. This is your guide for every line post in between — do not eyeball it.

Step 2: Drive line posts

With the string line in place, drive your line posts along the fence route:

• Spacing: Space Y posts or timber at 3–5 metre intervals. This is the standard for most flat-country runs.
• Depth: Drive each post to approximately 500–600 mm deep.
• Hills and pressure lines: On steep slopes and lines subject to heavy animal pressure, tighten the spacing to 2–3 metres. Wider spacing on hills lets the mesh sag between posts.
• Alignment: Check every post against the string line. A post that leans inward or outward will create a weak spot in the mesh.

Step 3: Unroll and tie off

With all posts in position, it is time to hang the mesh:

• Unroll along the ground: Lay the roll of field fence on the ground along the outside of the fence line. Walk it out for the full run before standing it up.
• Stand it up: Lift the mesh upright and lean it against the posts.
• Tie to each post: Using hog rings or tie wire, attach the mesh to each post at every horizontal line wire. Do not skip wires — each attachment point shares the load.
• Start from one end: Begin at one end post and work across. Tie off firmly to the first end post before you start tensioning.

Step 4: Tension and secure

Tensioning is where many installations go wrong. The correct approach depends on which knot type you are using:

• Use a wire strainer or come-along to pull the horizontal line wires tight. Work from the top wire down.
• Hinge joint — do NOT over-tension. This is critical. The hinge joint knot is designed to flex and spring back. If you pull it bar-tight like a plain wire, you kill that spring and the fence becomes brittle under impact. Tension firmly enough to remove sag, but leave enough give for the hinge to work.
• Ring lock can handle more tension. The rigid knot tolerates a tighter pull because it does not rely on flex to absorb impact.
• Secure to end posts: Once tensioned, fix the mesh to each end post with staples or firm wraps. Double-check that the end assembly is holding before releasing the strainer.

Tips for uneven terrain

Most farms are not perfectly flat. Here is how to handle contours and slopes:

• Follow the ground contour rather than trying to stretch the mesh level between posts. A fence that follows the land puts less stress on every junction.
• Hinge joint naturally absorbs undulation because each knot flexes. This is one of its biggest advantages on hilly country.
• Tighten post spacing on steep slopes. Drop to 2–3 metre intervals to prevent the mesh from sagging between posts on an incline.
• Consider stepping the fence on very steep sections. This means short sections of near-vertical mesh between angled runs, so the mesh stays square rather than being forced into a diagonal.

Common installation mistakes

We see the same errors again and again in the field. Avoid these and your fence will outlast most of your neighbours'.

• Weak end assemblies. This is the single biggest failure point. If the corner and end bracing is undersized or shallow, the entire tensioned run will pull the posts over within one season. Build your H-braces properly.
• Over-tensioning hinge joint. Pulling a hinge joint fence drum-tight destroys the spring that makes it resilient. It may look great on day one, but the first animal impact will permanently deform the mesh.
• Too-wide post spacing on hills. Saving a few posts on a steep slope costs you the whole fence when the mesh sags between them. Tighten up on slopes.
• Not using a string line. Eyeballing post alignment leads to wavy fences and uneven tension distribution. Always run a string line.

Choosing the right line posts

Your line posts carry the mesh between the corners. The right choice depends on budget, ground conditions and how long you need the fence to last.

• Y Posts (star pickets): Quick to drive with a post driver, factory-galvanised for corrosion resistance, and available in Plain, Scalloped and Studded profiles. The studded profile gives the best grip for hog rings and tie wire. This is the most common choice for field fence installations worldwide.
• Timber posts: Traditional and strong, especially for corner and end posts. Timber needs preservative treatment to resist rot, and it is heavier to transport. Good for permanent installations where you want a classic look.
• Steel posts: Last longer than timber and resist rot entirely. Higher upfront cost, but less maintenance over the life of the fence.

Many installers use a combination: steel or timber for corner assemblies and Y posts for the line runs. This gives you the strength where it matters and the speed where it counts. Browse our Y post range for specifications and profiles.